Piped Binding- How I Did It, Part 2August 7, 2006
I placed the binding/piping on the wrong side of the quilt lining up the raw edges with the binding extending at least 2 inches beyond the edge of the quilt. Stitching started at the point where the stitching lines cross, which I marked earlier. I used a pin through the quilt to show where that point was on the binding. I backstitched to secure and then stitched about a 6 inch section along the edge of the quilt. At this point I checked to see if the binding wrapped around the edge of the quilt as I wanted it to. It should wrap around, cover the stitching lilne and the piping should extend beyond the stitching line. This was the tricky part because different thicknesses of fabrics and battings will make the binding wrap around the edge differently. I found I had to rip out the stitching and move it over a hair’s width to get it right. So this is where patience and persistance come in handy!
After I got the seam allowance width right I stitched the entire length of that side of the quilt. I stopped stitching at the point where the stitching lines crossed in the next corner. I backstitched and removed the quilt from the machine.
Before starting the next edge, I folded a miter in the corner:
then fold it back onto the quilt even with the next quilt edge. The next line of stitching began at the edge of the quilt and continues down the next side. I continued stitching around the quilt, making miters at each corner.
Part 3 will detail how I joined the two ends into a mitered corner…